I do have an electronics background so I'm not starting without experience soldering, reading schematics etc.
Hopefully if I take my time this thing will work out nice. Down the road when I'm more familiar with amp repair/building I will purchase parts seperately. I figure it's better have all the parts right there when I start. I'm getting a kit from Torres Engineering. I have possession of a new cord and I'm foaming at the mouth, whet with antcipation of starting this project. The Champ had the lowest power output and the simplest circuit of all Fender tube amps. An updated version was introduced in 2006 as part of the 'Vintage Modified' line. Since I am currently more of an electrician than an amp tech I'm cool with what your telling me. The Fender Champ was a guitar amplifier made by Fender.It was introduced in 1948 and discontinued in 1982. Then replace all the electrolytic caps, don't forget the bias cap use a 100uF/100V part there.Īlso, keep in mind that a great many Fenders had the convenience AC outlet wired backwards the wide slot should be neutral and the narrow one is hot.Good idea. I would consider it but good luck either way.ĭoes it still have the 2-wire AC cord? Replace it with a 3-wire grounding cord, disconnect the polarity switch and rewire the power switching the neutral should go directly to one wire of the primary winding of the power transformer and the hot should go through the fuse, the switch and then to the other wire of the primary winding. Then again if you really want it done right you could ship it to Bruce at Mission and let him rejuvenate it for you and it would be golden. New cap job and that amp will likely outlast you. Comments: AA568 included a major change to the bias section of the power amp which was poorly received so Fender changed the model design to the AA1069 but kept much of the disliked circuitry.
Try to keep the wiring routing in tact exactly like it is but if the pots are scratchy you may have to take them out and clean them.
FENDER BANDMASTER FACEPLATE SERIES
Many change the blue coupling caps but if they still hold the DC well I keep them in because of the vintage tone they possess and the replacements depend on you're budget but the Malory 150 series works well in those. Try not to use hard chemicals on it as it can screw it up especially the faceplate but you can get another faceplate from Mojo if it's bad. If it's dirty or has filth, clean it up good and get all of the dust out. If it is original and has the original gold paper E-Caps then I would replace them and especially the ones under the hood and the Cathode bypass caps.
That amp IMO is one of the sweetest amps Leo ever made and they really sound awesome when working right.
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